Re: Shanus, need some help please.

Shanus · ‎05-17-2010

@SilleeMee wrote:
I would just buy a contour palette. Those usually come with some instructions and if not then there are plenty of videos online to show you how to apply contour products. I would stick to a palette with just 3 shades in it so it's easier.

Top-Rated Smashbox Step-By-Step Contour Kit - $35
https://www.qvc.com/Smashbox-Step-By-Step-Contour-Kit.product.A423256.html?sc=SRCH

@SilleeMee Yes, kits are helpful, but sometimes only one shade of the contour is correct and then the highlight...the 3rd darker shade is usually too dark.

I will add for the OP that I use a product specifically for contouring called The Sculpting Powder by Kevyn Aucoin in medium (the lighter shade works, too). He was the master and originator of contouring on celebrities. These are the perfect cool tones, one and done.

Highlighting is so tricky, I rarely use it. If you think about it, the highlight shade is to "assist" the contour shade to be more visible....darker shade with lighter shade above and below it. It's more natural to allow your concealer to go a bit lower under the eye and serve as the lighter highlighted area.

BTW, contour/highlight is really going out of fashion on most women. A more natural less is more makeup is attractive IMHO. Done wrong and it's not a good look. I rarely do it on clients except brides or for other print work.

Shanus · ‎05-17-2010

@Harpa wrote:
If you want another idea for a palette:
from It cosmetics

@Harpa I've seen this one and most tones are "bronzers" not contour shades. They appear muddy. The other issue is that no two faces are the same. If someone insists on contouring, it is placed according to face shape, features, etc. The diagram can be misleading and appears to be not only heavy handed, but also on a young woman with a perfectly oval face.

Shanus · ‎05-17-2010

FYI, a more natural makeup look became even more popular when masks began being worn in 2020. Many women realized and enjoyed less is more. Even eye makeup has been reduced to defining instead of using a heavier hand with several shades of shadow in brighter colors. Tightlining is popular to make lashes look thicker and if liner is used, it's approached from above with a fine line down into lashes. Then mascara is added. Defining brows are important, too. Most eye shadow looks are limited to two shades...lid and a crease shade that's a few shades darker than complexion. I find this is the best look for an aging eye, hooded eye or women over 50. Face and eye makeup is meant to accentuate features and not be too visible. If you look "made up" and not "just better and more defined", you may have overdone it.

I also prefer a more dewy/moist look to the face instead of powdered. That also goes along with what looks more natural. No ones face should look matte and all one shade. Watch Gucci Westman videos how she applies makeup with several shades of foundation sticks for the concealer and center of face and a darker shade for perimeter of face. It's "reverse contouring" that's very natural looking and an easy technique.

With the RMS line, Ms. Swift talks about the "balm" textured products adding a youthful glow to skin. Bobbi Brown's Jones Road line is also based on colored balms and moisturized skin. I would go so far as to say that this is the look we'll see going forward in makeup.

Shanus · ‎05-17-2010

@Dusty1 wrote:
@Sue4802 Not Shanus, so excuse my butt in.
If you have a bronzer try it. If it's not shimmery, the color may work for you.
The theory is that a contour color should be more grey to look like a shadow on your face, but I have a matte bronzer that works quite nicely to gently contour my face.
I also have a shade buy Fenty (Cream Bronzer in Buttah Biscuit) that is more cool/grey toned, that works very well.
Fenty does list them as Bronzer colors, but to use for contour.
You may also have an eye shadow shade that will work.

@Dusty1 I did say that a contour should be a cool grey/taupe shade to look like a natural shadow if contouring. Most larger shadow palettes that are not the ones w/ very bright blues/greens/violet shades, but more natural/neutral tones are quite useful. You can find a brow shade, a cool taupe contour shade, a darker shade to use as liner (you can wet your liner brush). There's a crease shade, a lid shade, etc. The Urban Decay basic matte palettes 1 and 2 are the perfect ones to have. Then you can add color in blush or a natural shadow shade from other palettes.

***When applying eye shadow, you're actually "contouring" the eye shape by adding a crease shade slightly above the crease. If the eye is round, you can extend the crease shade to add width and make a more elongated, almond shade etc. Narrow shaped eyes can be made to appear larger by putting the crease shade higher in the center.

This all may sound scientific. As a makeup artist and a fine artist, I've learned how to actually sculpt a face with makeup.

Shanus · ‎05-17-2010

@Sue4802 wrote:
What color + product do you use to contour? I was going to use bronzer, but, I think you said not to. I am not sure what would be good to use. I do need it. Thank you very much in advance.

@Sue4802 Just in case you didn't read my other posts, the most natural contour product is Kevyn Aucoin's The Sculping Powder in a few shades...medium seems to be universal. It's available at Sephora and most likely other sites since so popular. It's a tiny compact and not inexpensive, but so little is used, I've had the same one for over a year and not hit pan.

Any further questions, page @Shanus so I see it. Thanks.

Shanus · ‎05-17-2010

@Desertdi Thanks for diverting the question.

Harpa · ‎03-10-2010

@Shanus wrote:
@Harpa wrote:
If you want another idea for a palette:
from It cosmetics

@Harpa I've seen this one and most tones are "bronzers" not contour shades. They appear muddy. The other issue is that no two faces are the same. If someone insists on contouring, it is placed according to face shape, features, etc. The diagram can be misleading and appears to be not only heavy handed, but also on a young woman with a perfectly oval face.

@Shanus

I'm totally with you on a more natural, fresh look! I think it is way more youthful and appealing. I also understand when makeup is used to make some sort of statement otherwise.

Anyway....

The shades in the It are lighter than what they appear in print. The plus for them is that they use more skin friendly ingredients. You need something to work with -- some shades of darker than skin tone and light. Yes, the diagram is exaggerated, but that is the basic concept for creating that oval-shape.

It was @JudyL who just posted "what a difference a brush makes," and I couldn't agree with her more! I use the softest of brushes in the lightest of shades when I do use that palette.

Thank you for all your good advice & sharing your techniques. I'd have you do my face any day!

Dusty1 · ‎03-10-2010

@Sue4802 There is a lot of information here. All good & well meaning, but maybe overwhelming to you.

Do you just want to slim your face or lift your features?

It doesn't have to be so involved. That is why I said maybe just try something you have already.

For me, I use my Fenty Buttah Biscuit (Funny because butter biscuits is what caused the fullness in my face!) or Too Faced MIlk Chocolate Soleil (Which smells delicious. Like hot cocoa.) & any small brush or a fan brush. I feather that shade starting at the bottom of my ear & down underneath my jaw line.

Then I apply the color just under my cheek bone.

It takes less than a minute, but just slims my face & takes a bit of roundness off of my cheeks.

You can play with it & see where you like it on your face. You may like it & want to invest in a palette to highlight & contour.

You can do as little or as much as you want to.