Community Chat

[CatsyCline]

We put one in 3 years ago . 18000btu.  we use it summer and winter.  in the very hottest say 95+  weather we'd need a second MS for cooling .  But most days cooling is just fine.  just the quiet - godsend v. window AC units.

we use the heat MS on longer in the Fall and Spring before we fire up the woodstove.  we leave our thermostat at 60 at night.  we definately save $$$ on oil.

[CatsyCline]

@winter girl @J Town Girl    we too have a Mitsubishi.   we live in the Northeast (New England)

We do get very cold weather here Jan/Feb.  Best thing we did to keep oil bills low. our energy costs are lower even with the hikes in electric rates happening right now.  the best thing -not  having the furnace kick on every 5 min. we use wood - saves on wood as well. last yr went though 1 cord of wood - most yrs it's 2 cord.

[gertrudecloset]

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@winter girl wrote:

are they worth the huge cost?  Cost of oil versus the high electric bill to run them.  In need of opinions.

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Look for a very good SEER rating for your ductless mini splits.  Choose those with good warranties.  Shop around.  Make sure you size them properly.  Get them installed by qualified HVAC people in your area. 

They are far better than window air conditioners and can help offset heating costs in the Winter if you purchase a system with both cool and heat (heat pumps).

[gertrudecloset]

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@kaydee50 wrote:

We were considering installing ductless air conditioning in a prior home because it did not have central AC and we thought it would be cheaper than installing ducts.  Did not know these systems also provide heat??  

Can't advise because we sold the house before we had decided.  I would do a lot of homework and get several estimates.  It obviously would depend on where you live and what your climate is.

Good luck!

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It is much much cheaper than preparing and installing ductwork in your home.  Older homes such as the one I live in are ideal for ductless mini splits.

[SilleeMee]

Look for ways to increase the insulation in your house. The walls, the attic space, the crawl space and most importantly the windows if you can afford to replace those even one or two at a time. In the long run you'll save money on heating/cooling costs and in some areas you can get rebates from energy dot gov and your local city for insulating.

Instead of using more appliances and energy to heat/cool, try to invest in conserving the heat you do produce during the winter and also prevent heat from entering your home during the summer. It took me years to get things in order with all that I've done around my house. It still needs more work but at least I'm not spending a fortune on heating/cooling like I use to. One step at a time and patience has paid off.

[queendiva]

Next week I will be on the lookout for a portable electric heater- the kind that looks like a small radiator. I heat my house with natural gas, which is expected to cost $$$$, and electric is not anticipated to rise by as much.

I will just roll it into whatever room I am using at any given time. All on one level. 

[BklynKinsey]

My house is 150 years old, 4 stories.  The only way to do air conditioning is with window units or these ductless mini-split systems.

In 2011 I was having all new windows, insulation, siding on the house and decided to do the mini-split systems.  There are two 36,000 BTU compressors and four 18,000 BTU air handlers (the part that is inside the house).  I knew virtually nothing about these systems.  I had seen ads in magazines saying that they could be installed in one day -- ha -- no way!  There is tubing and the upgraded electrical wiring.  Rather than have this installed on the surface, the walls had to be opened up so all of the inside tubing and wiring is inside the walls and the outside tubing is under the new siding.  The inside was a mess!  But this is a very "clean" hidden installation.

I have Mitsubishi units.  This was the 12th summer I've had them.  They are wonderful -- efficient, cost effective and very quiet (since the compressors are outside).  A neighbor had Fujitsu units installed after mine and he has already had to replace them with Mitsubishi.  I would definitely use an authorized brand installer.

My main reason for having them is for a/c, but one February my gas furnace konked out on a Friday night.  I just turned them to the heat setting and we were comfy until the plumber was able to come to fix the furnace.  I wouldn't use them full-time for heat, but having them as a backup is a blessing.

Yes, this was expensive to install but it was well worth it.

[gertrudecloset]

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@BklynKinsey wrote:

My house is 150 years old, 4 stories.  The only way to do air conditioning is with window units or these ductless mini-split systems.

In 2011 I was having all new windows, insulation, siding on the house and decided to do the mini-split systems.  There are two 36,000 BTU compressors and four 18,000 BTU air handlers (the part that is inside the house).  I knew virtually nothing about these systems.  I had seen ads in magazines saying that they could be installed in one day -- ha -- no way!  There is tubing and the upgraded electrical wiring.  Rather than have this installed on the surface, the walls had to be opened up so all of the inside tubing and wiring is inside the walls and the outside tubing is under the new siding.  The inside was a mess!  But this is a very "clean" hidden installation.

I have Mitsubishi units.  This was the 12th summer I've had them.  They are wonderful -- efficient, cost effective and very quiet (since the compressors are outside).  A neighbor had Fujitsu units installed after mine and he has already had to replace them with Mitsubishi.  I would definitely use an authorized brand installer.

My main reason for having them is for a/c, but one February my gas furnace konked out on a Friday night.  I just turned them to the heat setting and we were comfy until the plumber was able to come to fix the furnace.  I wouldn't use them full-time for heat, but having them as a backup is a blessing.

Yes, this was expensive to install but it was well worth it.

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@BklynKinsey Mitsubishi, Daikin and Fujitsu are supposed to be some of the best with excellent SEER ratings.  SEER of 21 and up is really good.

[gertrudecloset]

Unfortunately, replacing your windows probably won't lower your overall energy consumption. You might not notice any savings at all.

How could that be? Aren't old, drafty windows the weakest link between the great outdoors and the conditioned indoors? It might seem that way - especially when you feel cold air coming through a drafty window in winter or feel heat penetrating the glass on a hot summer day.

There are much bigger holes to plug, and you should take care of those first.

Another problem with replacement windows is what kind of windows you currently have vs. what new windows you would likely install.  Everyone knows that if you have wood windows they are the best for insulating and better conductivity of heat and cold away from your home. Vinyl windows are not all they are cracked up to be.  Market is flooded with them and then don't do well (for me). 

I replaced windows in my bathroom and my kitchen because of my inability to access them (I'm short).  Removed wood double hung in the kitchen for vinyl sliders.  Right now, it's a nightmare with those vinyl sliders.

Removed wood double hung in the bathroom (right in the tub area) because it was hard to lift and had no way to make it private except for curtains.  Replaced with vinyl crank out and obscure glass and they are bust.  I bought them from Sears too.   I did these at separate times during my ownership of this house.  I'm so sorry I bothered.  

Not everyone will have this problem, but I'd think hard and long before I replace windows, unless they are at the point of no return.

If you have drafty windows they can be fixed with sealants and instead of replacing your current windows you can also buy storm windows if your windows allow placement for them.  This is far cheaper than replacing all of your windows. 

My home has it's beautiful original wood windows and aluminum storm windows.  I would never remove them to replace them with vinyl windows again.  The only other option for replacement windows I'd use would be composite.  A combination of vinyl and wood.  

An energy audit by your municipality or state might be a good idea to see what can be done to help with heating and cooling loss.  In my State one can get an weatherization audit for free (based on certain factors).  

[Sage04]

Don't know if this is what is called central air meaning that the entire house is airconditioned. In the winter it gives heat. According on how large your house is, you can have a 2-3 unit outside.

Never heard of mini-splits though. Is it the same as central air and heat?