Beauty

[monicakm]

I've been doing some reading about Retinol.  When I run out of Hyram's Retinol and Rainbow Algae I'll be buying a different brand.  Nothing against Hyram's product, just want to try another one.  And yes, I know Hyram's product is made by the Inky List.

I read that water should not be in Retinol products.  The Ordinary's retinol has no water in it.  The Inky List retinol which is an Allure 2021 Best of Beauty Award Winner has water as the first ingredient.  It is a cream product.  

Highlighted Ingredients:
- RetiStar Stabilised Retinol 1% and Granactive Retinoid 0.5%: Reduces the look of fine lines and wrinkles; slow release formula for low irritating, effective active delivery.
- Squalane: Hydrates and soothes.

Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Phospholipids, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Squalane, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract, Carbomer, Sodium Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycolipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium Edta, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Phenoxyethanol.

So I'm a little confused how this product can be so good but have water as the first ingredient. 

[Harpa]

@monicakm  Where did you read that water should not be in a retinol product? (Just curious)

From all the studies I have read, it is water that helps whatever you put on your skin to penetrate. I never understood this, and was critical of those creams & formulations that had water listed as a first ingredient.

Anyway, the 2 retinol products I've been using -- Alpha and more recently, MD Complete both list water as a first ingredient. Even if they didn't, I always apply on water-moistened skin, because of enhanced penetration.

[Iwantcoffee]

Does water make it bad? If so why?

[SilleeMee]

That Inkey List retinol appears to contain encapsulated (aka slow-release) retinol which keeps the retinol stable within a water formulation.

The Ordinary uses squalane in their formulation and their retinol doesn't appear to be encapsulated so water isn't used in their formulation. The squalane protects the retinol.

Water and air can oxidize retinol if the retinol isn't encapsulated. It doesn't change color when it oxidizes so you need to pay attention to the expiration dates posted on the containers. Encapsulated retinol has a longer shelf-life than regular retinol.

All retinol products are best contained inside a light-protective container. Light destroys retinol regardless of whether or not it's encapsulated.

[phoenixbrd]

@SilleeMee   Both of these products seem to have efficacy but by different methods.  Is the encapsulated protocol preferable due to the expiration date?  Thanks, as always, for the information....

[SilleeMee]

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@phoenixbrd wrote:

@SilleeMee   Both of these products seem to have efficacy but by different methods.  Is the encapsulated protocol preferable due to the expiration date?  Thanks, as always, for the information....

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@phoenixbrd 

Encapsulated retinol is a better retinol to use overall. Longer shelf-life plus the encapsulation makes it easier to travel into the skin and target the cells where it needs to go with minimal irritation.

[JudyL]

@monicakm and @SilleeMee - just looked at my Paula's Choice retinol and its first ingredient is water.  Never thought about that.  Can't tell if its encapsulated or not.  Its the one with 2% bakuchiol. Interestting post @monicakm 

[SilleeMee]

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@JudyL wrote:

@monicakm and @SilleeMee - just looked at my Paula's Choice retinol and its first ingredient is water.  Never thought about that.  Can't tell if its encapsulated or not.  Its the one with 2% bakuchiol. Interestting post @monicakm 

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@JudyL 

I'm almost certain that PC retinol products contain the encapsulated type of retinol. I would be surprised if they didn't. 

[Dazlin]

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@SilleeMee wrote:

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@JudyL wrote:

@monicakm and @SilleeMee - just looked at my Paula's Choice retinol and its first ingredient is water.  Never thought about that.  Can't tell if its encapsulated or not.  Its the one with 2% bakuchiol. Interestting post @monicakm 

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@JudyL 

I'm almost certain that PC retinol products contain the encapsulated type of retinol. I would be surprised if they didn't. 

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@SilleeMee ,@JudyL, I have the PC 1%, I just checked their site...it says it's controlled release. 

[monicakm]

@Harpa 

I'd have to try to back track and find the articles I read last night but @SilleeMee reply is good enough for me.  I'm ordering the Inky List retinol.  I ran across the articles by Googling "what is the difference between Retin A and Retinol?"