Trip Report - Johannesburg and Zimbabwe

Alter Ego · ‎03-12-2010

I struggled with whether I should start this trip report or wait until my return. After all, I will have no internet at my camps in Zimbabwe and there will be a sizable gap in reporting. But I’ve already done so much in Johannesburg that I thought it would be easier for me to start now. I will answer any questions (if I can) after I’m done posting.

I don’t know what really made me choose Zimbabwe for my big annual trip - I hadn’t expected a return to Africa until I was ready to go to Rwanda for gorilla trekking (2020, here I come!). But I was inspired at the travel show that I try to attend annually. And now here I am - currently in Johannesburg, leaving tomorrow for Zimbabwe.

But, I’m getting ahead of myself...

I left on a rainy Saturday. While I was getting my mani/pedi (admit it - you probably get them too before a big trip!!), I received an email that my flight was delayed two hours. Was good such that I was able to clean up more around the house and take time with my kitties, but a little worrisome given my layover in Amsterdam was only a little over three hours (now one hour!). All worked out and I landed in Johannesburg as scheduled. In an aside - what a difference a plane makes! Flew economy. Flight to Amsterdam had small crowded seats. The plane to Johannesburg was newer and the seats were quite luxurious in comparison. Didn’t hurt that nobody sat next to me either!

No issues getting through passport control. I did have security personnel stop me after I picked up my bags and asked where I was flying from and kind of looked at my bags. But no issues and was immediately whisked off to my hotel.

Is that a screeching halt you hear? That’s me arriving at my hotel and being told my reservation was canceled. Sigh - travel agents. I don’t usually use them. Luckily they had a room for me and the manager on duty assured me they would figure out ( and they did.)

My luggage - I’m a rule follower and this is the size my tour said I could bring. Vacuum space bags are a wonderful thing. Weight wise?? Hmmm - I guess I missed that part in the brochure. 😊

Alter Ego · ‎03-12-2010

I’m staying at the Michelangelo Hotel in Sandton. It’s a nice, higher end area. My hotel surround a square with several restaurants and malls. Very nice and safe, particularly for someone traveling solo.

Oversized statue of Mandela in front of one of the malls

My hotel

I really love the fish in that water feature!

Alter Ego · ‎03-12-2010

I planned my Johannesburg tours myself. My TA gave me an obnoxious price, but I know how to use TripAdvisor and connected with one of their top ranked tour guides and paid significantly less. Phillipians 4 Four took me on both days. Recommended if anyone is going to Joburg.

Day One - city tour

We made several stops today. Constitution Hill. Top of Africa. Apartheid Museum. Mandela’s home. Hector Pieterson Museum. Soweto Towers. We also drove by more sites.

Johannesburg has serious and recent history. Hoping nothing posted will be too controversial to anyone.

Lilysmom · ‎03-09-2010

@Alter Ego, great report! Have fun on your trip. LM

Vivian · ‎03-11-2010

I really enjoyed your report...and the photos. Thanks so much and keep us posted when you can.

Alter Ego · ‎03-12-2010

Constitution Hill.

A former prison that is a stark reminder to South Africa’s past as well as the current location of South Africa’s highest court (its Supreme Court).

White and non-white prisoners were kept in separate buildings. The only non-white prisoner kept with the whites was Nelson Mandela- likely because they didn’t want him to see the conditions the others lived under. Gandhi also was imprisoned here.

The non-whites were held in Numbers Four and Five (collectively known as Number Four). Meant to hold 900, it was stuffed with 2,000+ prisoners.

The cells were meant to hold 30, but instead held 60 men (female prisoners had their own building in the facility.) This was the start of the infamous prison gangs -particularly the 28 Gang that is still the most powerful gang in South Africa’s prisons. The gang leaders had the best locations in the cells and where you slept in proximity to the leaders reflected your status in the gangs. Prisoners were given blankets and these were used to create sculptures or furniture to make the living more bearable.

It’s amazing the amount of thought put into the humiliation of others. There was one bathroom in each cell. In addition, there were public washrooms. Very public. An open area in full view of those eating - and chairs were set up to look. The area sloped downhill. You can guess what was on top.

There were also public showers. 8 showers for 2,000 men. Water ran for only 30 minutes, once a week. Gang leaders were always first in line. It may be months before a prisoner would get a shower.

Solitary confinement

One must remember that many (most?) prisoners here were not hardened criminals. Frankly, if the were, I couldn’t care how they were treated. But these were mainly political prisoners. Black men were required to carry a pass to work and, if they didn’t have it, they would be thrown in jail. Once their sentence was up, they were dropped off in the same place they were found - only to be picked up almost immediately afterwards for not having pass. Many were innocent men. Their crime was the color of their skin.

Alter Ego · ‎03-12-2010

A more positive post...their Supreme Court.

South Africa has 11 languages and they are all represented on here. The guide here pronounced the first one - it has a click! Needed him to repeat a few times because I wasn’t sure it was actually him making that sound!

Located in center of Constitution Hill

SandPiper · ‎06-04-2017

Thank you so much for taking the time to write your detailed post. I feel i am by your side as you visit these sites. I have learned quite a few things and really enjoyed the pics as well.

Sometimes the strength within you is not a big fiery flame for all to see. It is just a tiny spark that whispers ever so softly "You Got This - Keep Going"