Fashion

[Foxxee]

The Dell'Olio Formula: Classic, Aggressive, Sexy

November 15, 1988

New York Times

Commercial success and critical acclaim do not necessarily go hand in hand in fashion, but Louis Dell'Olio of Anne Klein is winning accolades on both counts.

His resort collection appeared in Saks Fifth Avenue's windows last Tuesday night. When the store opened on Wednesday, ''he had a tremendous day,'' said Ellin Saltzman, a senior vice president and the fashion director of the store. ''We did not advertise the clothes until Sunday. We had to take merchandise off the selling floor to cover the ad.''

''We had just shipped the resort styles,'' Mr. Dell'Olio said. ''The store sold $25,000 worth that first day. We're on the right track.''

In the last three years, the main collection of the Anne Klein business has grown from $20 to $30 million dollars annually. Add the subsidiary collections like Anne Klein II, and income from licensees who manufacture Anne Klein shoes, belts, handbags, furs, jewelry and belts, and the total annual volume is close to $400 million. The line is carried by 275 stores. Prices are $600 to $700 for jackets, $250 to $300 for skirts and $400 for pants.

'It's such a success story,'' said Dawn Mello, president of Bergdorf Goodman. ''He understands the needs of women in all walks of life. He makes clothes that are fashionably up to date but that a woman can feel she will be able to wear the next year. And his business is growing.''

Three years ago, when Donna Karan, his co-designer at Anne Klein for 10 years, left to start her own company, the future was not so clear cut. Retailers wondered whether Mr. Dell'Olio, now 40 years old, was strong enough to maintain the character of the house, let alone make the business grow.

''It was a little scary to be out there alone,'' Mr. Dell'Olio recalled recently. ''Donna and I had worked so closely together we knew what each other was thinking. You can afford to be lazy when someone else is there.''

''But as soon as I started working, that fear was gone,'' he continued. ''I had a built-in customer, but Donna was starting something new. She had the tougher job.''

Mr. Dell'Olio had worked hard to become a fashion designer. He began sketching clothes when he was 10.

Louis and Anne Klein

''It always astounded me that my friends didn't know what they would do with their lives,'' he said. ''All my energies were directed to this one field. I worked for it. When it happened, I was ready for it.''

After graduating from Elmont (L.I.) Memorial High School, he worked one summer for Norman Norell, then Seventh Avenue's most prestigious designer.

''I picked up pins, got coffee and knew this was where I wanted to be,'' he said. ''Mr. Norell told me, 'Be patient, learn your craft and if you're talented, it will happen.' ''

He attended the Parsons School of Design on a Norell scholarship, became good friends with Ms. Karan, and after graduation went to work at Teal Traina and then Originala, manufacturing concerns. In July 1974, a few months after Anne Klein's death, he was hired to work with Ms. Karan. The two continued to develop sportswear, the area of fashion Ms. Klein had revived in 1968.

The sportswear concept has evolved over the years from strictly casual clothes to styles ''for work, play and evening,'' Mr. Dell'Olio said.

In his case, there is a strong classic slant and, he hopes, ''an American sensibility.''

''The important thing is that the clothes must be comfortable,'' he said. ''Women will not suffer for fashion today. And everything must be functional; that's the legacy of sportswear.''

The clothes he likes best tend to be classic ''with a little aggression built in,'' he said. He favors styles that ''border on the masculine'' because they are sexy. He likes pants whether they are in or out of fashion, and blazers because they make women look great.

By aggressive clothes, he means severely tailored styles. ''I don't like 'dressmaker jackets,' '' he said. ''They have no substance.''

Whatever the formula, it seems to be working. ''I think Louis has as strong a grasp of who his customer is as any designer we buy from in the world,'' said Ron Frasch, a senior vice president and general merchandise manager of Neiman-Marcus.

Mr. Dell'Olio is also one of the few designers who is concerned with business, Mr. Frasch said. ''When we write our orders, he spends the entire day in the showroom with us,'' Mr. Frasch said. ''He explains why he did some things and he cares about our reaction. You can tell him you don't like something and you don't have to worry about his ego. He really wants to know why.''

He is not interested in being outrageous, but cares about how women look.

''He has matured as a designer and we are lucky to have him,'' said Marjorie Dean, the chairwoman of the Tobe Report, a fashion merchandising service. ''It took a while for him to break away from the spell of Donna, but he has worked out his own style.'' Checking Out What's New

At Macy's, ''we have customers who follow the collection and come in frequently to check out what's new,'' said Joan Kaner, a vice president and the fashion director.

There is respect for Mr. Dell'Olio's designs as well as enthusiasm for his wearable clothes. This does not surprise him.

''I don't think 'commercial' is such a stigma,'' he said. ''The best European designers, Yves Saint Laurent and Giorgio Armani, sell a lot of clothes.''

Like many other designers, he is looking forward to the day when his company has its own retail shops. ''I want to be there when the merchandise comes in so I can set it up my way,'' Mr. Dell'Olio said. ''And I certainly hope to be there when the first customer walks into the store. That will be fun.''

Unfortunately, that never happened for him.  

[nyc1]

@Foxxee  BEYOND FABULOUS.   THANK YOU for posting.  Made me smile and think about all my beautiful and special purchases made from day  one and all the while he was on QVC.  I still have almost everything and they are as current, magnificent and flattering today as the day I bought each. 
Thanks again.  

[Lovevienna]

His departure was a huge loss for QVC.

[NicksmomESQ]

 I really enjoyed this thanks. I'm a huge fan & still don't understand why QVC discontinued his line. Louis brought style & class to the Q. Something they are sorely missing!!

[beach-mom]

Thank you so much for posting this @Foxxee!

 I had never heard of Louis until QVC, because I really didn't shop much for designer clothes, unless you count Liz Claiborne and other middle department store lines. One time I happened to be watching he was featuring items with what I call a French navy style. I bought a lot. And I started paying attention. 

I fell in love with his style - I was enthralled by his talent. So I came in late, but better late than never. I would have missed out on some wonderful clothes- and jewelry. 

I miss him. 

I learned so much by reading this article. What a talented man!  

[jbinrwc]

I miss him and his clothes so much.  I still have every item that I bought from his QVC line, even the things that don't fit me any longer.  Just can't bear to get rid of them.  And, I can still wear most everything I ever ordered as long as the items fit.  They are just beautifully designed and made and classic. 

@Foxxee ,so thankful to see this very interesting original post.  Appreciate the time you took to post.

[KKlim]

Thanks @Foxxee for posting this for us. As a former Fashion Bridge buyer, I love reading these vintage Fashion articles!

[Jk9]

I miss his shows on qvc.  I  enjoyed watching him discuss and style items.  He was so knowledgeable and professional.  He made the kind of clothes I could wear to work and I looked forward to his collections.  Miss him.

And thanks for posting the article @Foxxee 

[jackthebear]

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@Lovevienna wrote:
His departure was a huge loss for QVC.

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I agree but times change and from what I recall he didn't want to go in the direction that Q wanted

[TexasMom1]

What a lovely tribute to Louis Del Olio! His designs here are truly missed. I have so many of his clothes and I love them all. I never failed to get compliments on anything with the Linea label. The Linea shows were a delight to watch.